La Fiesta El Toro

Gringo Day started off on Mexican time ( i.e. about an hour or so after the posted start time) with people gathering in an outdoor arena where we were served unlimited beer and beef stew with fresh tortillas. This family was sitting next to us on the back row of tables where the sun's path gradually found us and started to bake us while we waited. Over time we all moved our tables and chairs to chase the coolness of the awning shadows. They entertained us all with ear blasting recorded music to which some couples danced in a hip swaying style that seemed very intimate. The really good dancers were fun to watch and seemed to be attached hip to hip as they gyrated around. Girls looked more or less disinterested while the guys pressed them close from the small of their backs. (Can't imagine chaperoning a Jr High dance here after my own upbringing with nuns monitoring body distance at our dances.) There was a live mariachi band at some point but we couldn't hear them because the DJ wouldn't turn down his speakers to make them audible. After the fiesta we all wandered down the road a half mile to the rodeo rink where more LOUD music was blaring from a new live band on site.

The outdoor area was a big earthen pit that was lined with terraces where people sat on white plastic chairs or wooden beaches or poured concrete stairs to watch the event and drink more beer. The loudspeaker here was even louder than at the food arena which was hard to imagine possible. When they were almost done with all the announcing of the contestants, and the prayers, and the thanks to dignitaries etc. and the suspense was building they cranked up the sound system even more for an ear splitting blast of excitement from which my right ear's hearing hasn't yet recovered. The riders were very good and never fell from their bulls before time was called and their rides were lassoed so they could make a safe and graceful dismount. One guy took the whole ride without use of hands which was very amazing. We heard afterward that he had deeply dug in his spurs to give him grip, which he especially needed as his bull did not like having such an irritant on his back or dug into his sides. All in all it was a fun thing to have done and we left the party still going when we returned and went to bed around 10pm. However, at around midnight we were awakened by the return of the party to the food arena where the music blasted away 2 blocks from our B&B till well on 3am. Even with ear plugs jammed in it was difficult to sleep till the party was over. The next morning as we gringos lamented the lack of sleep we learned this is a four day festival repeated each night the same as the last. I can't believe I'm thinking I'll get a better night's sleep on the international flight coming up tomorrow. Ah, the price of a good time...
Chris